
Whenever I visit a wool festival I'm always drawn to the stalls with vintage needlecraft books and ancient knitting patterns. Why? Because they're where the treasure's hidden! My latest find, at first glance, wasn't treasure at all ... pages 59 to 110 of a grubby, dog eared, and unidentified needlework periodical. A remnant, but what of? Not knowing and wanting to know was why I bought it; I never could resist a puzzle. And luckily page 102 held the key to its origins, a mention of the editor's new book, The Craft of the Crochet Hook. Flora Klickmann, of The Girl's Own Paper fame, later The Girl's Own and Woman's Magazine, published a number of crochet books between 1912 and 1919, and The Craft of the Crochet Hook was among them. Turns out I'd bought part of an almost one hundred year old copy of Stitchery, a quarterly supplement to The Girl's Own and Woman's Magazine intended to be "... in the highest degree interesting and helpful to girls and women of the upper and middle classes". And within, among the instructions for 'knitted lace edgings', 'crocheted handkerchief corners', and 'appliqué patchwork', was an article titled "Morality in Needlework. By a London woman". I hope you'll forgive a lengthy quote ...
... Needlework is certainly an unfailing index of qualities. Directly one begins to use a needle, one starts upon a regular character chart; and the very first indication that appears is the degree of patience possessed by the worker. There is no need of an elaborate piece of work to test this quality. ... the mending of a tear is sufficient. ... what a delightful sense of peace, freedom, and satisfaction in right doing comes when one has resisted the temptation to be in a hurry, and has carefully unravelled threads from a piece of stuff, chosen a fine needle, and completed a well-nigh invisible darn. That feeling is proof positive of right or wrong doing; and it ought to show us that even in a simple thing like needlework there is a 'narrow path' to follow. ... Now that wider freedom has been obtained for the majority of women, and even custom and public opinion no longer demand delicacy, refinement, and the mastery of domestic duties from them, it should lead one to think very seriously as to the effect such "freedom" is producing on that homely character-chart, our sewing. ... Restraint, self-control, strength of purpose, are the inevitable guardians of morality; these qualities are absolutely essential to the execution of good needlework. Needlework does not of course produce them, but if we train ourselves to do the little tasks which come our way with respect instead of scorn for that humble instrument - the needle - we may find ourselves increasing in moral vigour by the exercise of the qualities good needlework demands.So there you have it, the recent revival of make do and mend may be driven by thrift but it will also make a better woman of you! To offer some context, The Girl's Own Paper and its supplements were published by the Religious Tract Society, arguably with the unstated intention of shaping women's behaviour at a time of unprecedented female emancipation. To sit quietly and stitch was to demonstrate possession of those supposedly essential female attributes, patience and piety. A woman's place was in the home, and her ability to create a safe haven there for her family might be inferred from her ability with a needle and thread. I wonder how many of us ponder that when we home in on the vintage embroidered linens at brocantes?
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